Tonal graphics on a washed charcoal waffle long sleeve
A brand wanted the graphics on its charcoal waffle long sleeve to "sit inside the wash." The ink contrast for the shirt's four graphics was settled on two test prints, and the garment sample made after them was approved the first time.
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Contrast on the test prints
The shirt carries four one-color graphics: gothic lettering at the collar, an illustration with two lines of text on the lower front, lettering down one sleeve and a cross on the other. All four had to show up close on a shirt that looks almost solid charcoal from a few steps away. We proposed giving the collar lettering and the lower-front graphic slightly more contrast than the two sleeve graphics. The brand agreed, on the condition that the lower-front text stay legible in product photos.
The soft-hand ink used on the graphics leaves only a thin layer on the knit. In a wash, that thin layer fades along with the charcoal around it until the two sit closer in tone. We compared the first test print, made on a small piece of the washed fabric, before and after washing. That test showed the collar lettering and the lower-front graphic losing more contrast than the sleeve graphics.
At the brand's request, we changed the ink mix for those two graphics only. The sleeve graphics and all four print positions stayed as they were. The brand approved the second test print for the garment sample. It found that the print kept the washed look and that the collar and lower-front text were clear.
Orders for a garment-dyed long sleeve
On an order, the four graphics are printed on undyed cream panels first. After sewing, the shirts are garment dyed charcoal and finished with a vintage wash.
We charge $80 to $150 to develop a long sleeve on our Custom (Made to Order) route. The pattern, the garment sample and two rounds of changes come with that fee. Test prints like the two on this shirt are billed separately.
Custom long sleeves are priced like T-shirts: $5.50 to $9.50 a piece for 50 to 99 pieces of a color, a price between the two tiers for 100 to 299, and $3.50 to $6.00 for 300 to 500. We include the dye and the wash in the piece price. With its garment dye, vintage wash and 320 gsm cotton waffle, a shirt like this sits toward the top of each tier.
The four graphics are one color apiece and come from four screens. The screens are charged once for the design, at $15 to $45 a screen. Each of the four one-color print positions costs $0.50 to $1.20 a piece to print.
A Custom style's first sample needs 7 to 12 days after the deposit. A Custom order with a sample approved on arrival reaches a US address by air 31 to 48 days after the deposit. The garment dye adds 7 to 14 days to that.